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Stain Removal – What You Need to Know – Part II
In a previous issue, we gave you the fundamentals of stain removal. Once again, we thank the International Fabricare Institute (I.F.I) for contributing to the information that follows in this article. With the fundamentals in hand, you should now be ready to tackle the many common stains. Treat this information as a guide. We can not offer guarantees on the success of any of these suggestions since dyes, materials, manufacturing processes, appliqués, trim, your procedures and quality control are out of our hands. Whenever in doubt, or if you intend to have the garment treated by a professional do so without first using these tips and guidelines.
| Rule #1: Always test for colourfastness before applying any stain removal agent. To do this, blot a small amount of any stain removal agent (using the wet-stain, dry-stain technique learned last issue) on an inconspicuous area of the garment with a white cloth. If any traces of dye appear on the cloth, do not use that agent. Bring this stain to your professional
Rule #2: Act quickly. The longer some stains are on the fabric, the harder they are to remove.
Rule #3: Blot the stain – never rub or brush it, which could damage the fabric. Work from the outer edge of the stain.
Rule #4: Do not use more cleaning agent than you need.
Rule #5: Use an absorbent material (paper towels will do) under the stained area to absorb the stain and prevent it from spreading. Change the position of the paper towel often to provide a clean area beneath the stain. Constantly monitor for dye loss on the towel. |
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There are four methods and several stain removal agents. Look up the type of stain and follow the method of removal. Complete one step at a time. If the stain appears to be removed after one or two steps, stop. If you are in doubt, bring the garment to your professional garment care specialist as soon as possible.
Materials:
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Dry Solvents (fluid): look for products that contain petroleum solvents, petroleum hydrocarbon or petroleum distillate. Follow the instructions, work in a well ventilated area and never put garment with the fluid on it into the washer or dryer. |
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Mild synthetic washing detergents: one tablespoon per cup of warm water. |
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Household ammonia: one teaspoon per cup of water. |
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White vinegar: one part vinegar to three parts water. |
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Bleach: three percent hydrogen peroxide. |
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Bleach – chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite): one part bleach to four parts water – never use on silk, wool, nylon or spandex. |
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Enzyme detergent: common (PH Neutral) household detergent with enzymes added or pre-soak. (Note: enzymes will not survive, nor therefore be effective in an alkaline or acid environment; therefore a neutral - 7PH - detergent is required when adding an enzyme.) |
Methods:
Follow these methods for the applicable stain.
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Blood, chocolate, egg, ice cream, milk, baby formula, vomit, perspiration: blot with water, then use an enzyme detergent. Note - enzyme detergents take time to work, 20 to 60 minutes, depending on temperature and type of stain, so be patient. If the stain is still there, use ammonia. If the stain remains, use hydrogen peroxide. |
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Coffee, tea, wine, soft drinks, tomato sauce, soy sauce: blot with water, then use mild synthetic detergent. If the stain remains, use vinegar. If the stain remains, use hydrogen peroxide (keep area wet with hydrogen peroxide until the stain disappears and monitor for colour loss). |
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Butter, furniture polish, grease, lipstick, foundation makeup, mayonnaise: blot with dry solvent. If the stain is still visible use mild synthetic detergent. Finally, try ammonia. |
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Candle wax, crayon, chewing gum, paint: blot with dry solvent. If any staining material remains, treat with mild synthetic detergent and ammonia. The last traces of colour matter may be removed with one of the bleaches listed above in the materials section. |
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Mustard: Due to the unique nature and dying properties of the tanners (yellow dyes) in mustard we strongly recommend that you do not touch mustard at all. Let it dehydrate on the fabric without rubbing or wiping and take to your garment care professional. |
These stains are common but require a special procedure for removal:
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Ballpoint pen: apply dry solvent. Blot until all bleeding stops, move and replace the towel often as it absorbs the ink. If the stain remains, treat it with a mild synthetic detergent and household ammonia. |
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Mildew: usually requires washing with chlorine bleach. Be sure to test for colourfastness before using, even on white garments. (white is also a dyed colour) Never use bleach on silk, wool, nylon or spandex. |
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Nail polish: never use this method on acetate fibres (remember most lining materials under the outer shell are acetate) and be sure to test for colourfastness before proceeding. Blot the stain with acetone, moving the stained area as the towel absorbs the nail polish. |
In Part III of this stain removal series, we’ll explore a few more things to keep in mind about home stain removal along with some fact vs. fiction.
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