In this Newsletter
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Stain Removal - What You Need to Know - Part III
 Welcome to the third and final part in our series on stain removal. In the May issues, we provided some fundamentals on stains and basic treatments. In the June issue, we discussed general rules, immediate
treatment, home vs. professional removal, materials and stain removal methods. Once again, we thank The International Fabricare Institute (I.F.I) for contributing to the general information that appeared in the previous articles and what follows in this issue.
Everyone has been taught a home stain removal remedy or two by their mother or grandmother. In the case of many of these quick-fix solutions, there is a grain of truth to them, but overall, either the proposed method may do more
damage than good, or there simply may be a better way.
To debunk some of these old wives tales, we separate the facts from the fiction
- MYTH: In a pinch, apply club soda to a stain. It is a great first aid remedy.
TRUTH: In some instances club soda will remove a clear colourless water-based stain, but so will good old fashioned cool water. When applying club soda to a water-based stain, both the soda and the stain must be flushed out completely right away. Otherwise a residue surrounded by a water ring will remain that could result in a permanent stain when dry.
- MYTH: To remove a scorch mark from an iron, rub the scorched area with a piece of raw onion for a short time, soak it in cold water and the scorch will fade.
TRUTH: Rubbing an onion on a scorch mark does not remove the stain. Light scorch will sometimes rinse out with just cold water. Heavier scorch needs bleach to remove the stain. Since there has probably been some fabric damage if the scorch is severe, it would be best to try 3% hydrogen
peroxide. We do not suggest chlorine bleach. If the damage has gone beyond scorching and has burned the fabric, it has been permanently damaged.
- MYTH: Applying saliva will help remove milk stains, blood stains and other types of food stains.
TRUTH: Although unpalatable, saliva contains enzymes that help break up some stains through a digestive process - just as the saliva in your mouth begins to digest the foods you eat. There are more preferred methods of stain removal, such as an enzyme pre-soak, which can be purchased at grocery stores or the digester used by drycleaners.
- MYTH: For ink stains from a ballpoint pen, apply hair spray and water.
TRUTH: Hairspray and water can indeed remove ballpoint ink, but you may be trading one problem for another. That's because hairspray contains alcohol and oils such as resins and lanolin. The alcohol in hairspray can cause colour damage, especially on silk; likewise, oils and other ingredients could lead to additional stains. A more appropriate solution would be to apply a dry
solvent to the stain. (refer to our May Newsletter issue) Blot the stain until all the bleeding stops, move the stained area as the towel absorbs the ink. If the stain remains, treat it with a mild synthetic detergent and household ammonia. There are a few more things to keep in mind about stain removal if you decide to do it yourself.
- Bleaching: Bleaching is a last resort if the stain does not respond to either dry-side or wet-side measures. Ordinary 3% hydrogen peroxide bleach (available at grocery stores) is the easiest to use. Test the bleach first on an unexposed seam or a sample of the material. Pour some bleach on the sample piece and wait five minutes for a reaction. Many white fabrics contain an optical brightener that will turn yellow when bleached. Very brightly-coloured fabrics may contain
optical brightening agents as well; bleach may cause these colours to become dull.
Factoid: There are six basic types of bleaches used in the industry. They are in two main categories - either an Originating Bleach (add oxygen to a stain) or a Reducing Bleach (remove oxygen from a stain). They do not remove a stain they simply create an optical illusion by adding or removing oxygen so that the stain becomes invisible to the eye! The exception to this is Chlorine bleach
which does have stain removal properties as well for certain stains.
- Rust Stains: Rust stains should be approached with great care. Rust removers are sold at grocery stores. They are very acetic and are more prone to damage plant based (cellulose) fibres such as Cotton, Ramie, Rayon, Linen etc. Use them only on washable garments or fabrics so they can be laundered immediately afterward. Laundering will rinse out the rust remover. If it is not removed, it can burn the skin. Do not use a rust remover on any fabric containing metallic
threads.
- Tough Stains: Some stains don't lend themselves to home methods. Most medicine stains, fingernail polish, adhesives and paint are difficult to remove and should be taken to a professional cleaner.
- Don't Wait: All stains should be removed before they have time to set. Time or heat can set stains. Even a professional cleaner will have trouble getting the stain out if he/she doesn't receive the garment soon after the stain occurred.
- Delicate Fabrics: Do not attempt home stain removal on leather, suede, furs, vinyl, fabrics that are heavily sized like taffeta and organdie, nets, satins and those with fugitive colours.
- Invisible Stains: Many fruit juices and drinks disappear into the fabric and leave no visible stain, though the sugars are deposited there. Drycleaning fluid doesn't dissolve them. Heat browns them causing a stain that doesn't come out. If you spill juice or soda on a fabric, flush it out immediately with water - even though the stain is invisible.
If you would like another copy of any or all of the three articles about
home stain removal, write to Susan at susan@pressgallery.ab.ca. We'll be happy to send the information to you.
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